You need to understand that we hadn't slept since Thursday night. We boarded the Icelandair flight at 2:30PM EDT Friday June 1 at JFK Airport in New York City. Jamaica NY to be precise. We landed in Iceland for a plane change. It was almost midnight local time Saturday. The sun was still up. We boarded the next plane and headed southeast towards Paris. The sun just sort of rotated in the sky, from the west to the east, without ever "setting." A whole night with no darkness; a little disorienting, ya think????
So at 6:30AM Paris time Saturday June 2, the intrepid travelers arrive at Charles DeGaulle Airport just outside Paris, France. After what seemed like many kilometers of stairs and moving walkways, we collected our baggage and stood in the parking garage in front of the Peugeot 5008 SW assigned to us by the rental car company. The gearshift had markings "R, A, M." There was a starter button. On the dash was a lever with a "P." There were buttons and levers all over, most unmarked. An examination of the glove box and various other nooks and crannies in the interior provided no assistance in the form of a manual or quick-start card.
After about 45 minutes playing with various buttons and levers, Google Maps printout in hand and hoping the address of our farmhouse destination in the Loire Valley was actually entered into the navigation package, we set out from the garage. Almost immediately a major flaw in our preparations revealed itself. Months had been spent perusing websites about the area, rules and regs from the US State Department and Icelandair to make certain we complied with the current paranoia that is air travel and did not act like the ugly American tourists of cinema and literature, but we had not acquainted ourselves with French TRAFFIC SIGNS!!!!! We knew "a droit" is "right" and "a gauche" is "left" but speed limits?? route signs?? traffic control warnings?? NO CLUE. So sleep deprived, unprepared, ignorant of the signage, we set off for the 300-plus kilometer drive southwest to Monts-sur Guesnes and the farmhouse we had rented for the week..........
We knew we needed to access a road called Périphérique Sud then Route A-10. Never saw a sign for the first road but we were able to muddle along and get on A-10. The turn-by-turn directions we had printed were useless without recognizable street name signs. Thankfully the nav worked except the volume was so low that it was necessary for everyone in the vehicle to silence themselves whenever "she" spoke to augment the directions on the screen----mostly pearls of wisdom like "At the round-about, take the second exit." (It took two days to figure out the volume control.)
Also annoying was the distinct hesitation when starting from a full stop. It took an email exchange with a state-side friend to alert me to the possibility the Peugeot might be a diesel----it was!!! But so quiet and comfortable compared to American perceptions of diesel power---noisy, smoky, the fuel more expensive than plain old gasoline.......But not in France where gaszole averaged about .20euros per liter less than petrol. And once I understood that "M" meant "manual" mode, the sluggishness at the low end could be managed with the shifter levers on either side of the steering wheel.
So about four and a half hours after arrival in Paris, after a journey of around 334 kilometers, tolls in excess of 25euros (about $1.25 to the euro), exhausted and famished, we arrived at Monts-sur-Guesnes and the farmhouse that would be our home for the next week.
Organ Mountains
Monday, June 25, 2012
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Home at Last
After almost three weeks away, the Mud Shack looked pretty good to these weary travelers. There will be pictures and commentary about our trip in forthcoming posts but first a few salient impressions of the trip to New York, France, and New England.
It was very impressive to see the construction of the new tower at the site of the old World Trade Center. Even nicer to relax in the courtyard of St. Paul's Chapel, built in 1766. The old graveyard is a pleasant respite from the bustle of the city.
We spent eleven full days in France, both the countryside of the Loire Valley and in Paris, and never got served escargot. But I did manage three pizzas: one at a cafe/bar near the Chateau of Villandry; one from a cart at the Richelieu farmer's market; and the third from Vesuvio Ristorante on Blvd. St. Germain in Paris. Only the one from the cart offered to slice the pizza!!! The other two were discs of cheese, sauce and toppings. I must say all three were excellent. The other gastronomic treat was the oysters, both from Ile de Re and the Richelieu market. They were superior to any I've had in years---maybe that's because we can't get very fresh oysters in the desert?? At least, not the aquatic variety....
The full day in Boston was spent walking and shopping for souvenirs for family and friends. (We were too sick from colds/allergies to do much shopping in Paris.) While I loved the dinner at the Atlantic Fish Co. on Boylston St., the oysters weren't as sweet as the ones in France. But the Lenox Hotel again surpassed our expectations. And the true center of the universe is the corner of Brookline Ave. and Yawkey Way!!! Love the "Red Sockets" parking area and recharging station for electric automobiles....
Friday night we attended a retirement dinner for six teachers from the school in Candia. It was wonderfully attended and so great to see people we have missed over the five years since we left New Hampshire. Saturday was spent with friends in Candia and thanks to all for their wonderful friendship and hospitality.
But the best part of the saga was waking up Monday morning in a bed full of canine kids.....
Friday, May 11, 2012
What a week
It's been a while since I've posted----sorry. Retirement has become busier than anticipated. But this past week.........The hollyhocks are out of control and the cholla and prickly pear are in full bloom.
Amazing how green the desert can become. We are having a bit of early monsoon; thunderstorms, soaking rain, something not usually seen until mid-June.
The president, his vice-, and the secretary of education all came out in favor of marriage for anyone. I know my personal thoughts on this matter have been, to quote POTUS, "evolving" and they have basically arrived at the same point that these luminaries expressed this week: We are all equal, or we are not. I thought it was rather sad seeing a black, sorry, African-American, bishop of some evangelical sect taking the negative position on this issue and sounding very much like he had gotten his civil rights so now it was okay to deny them to another subset of the citizenry. Very sad. I really wish "Christians" would understand that Leviticus is NOT in the New Testament, which purports to be the Word of Christ.
Finally, yay, Congress!!! The House passed a budget. It allows for an increase over the previous budget deal for buying missiles and other armaments while cutting food stamps and Medicare. The priority is the killing of unnamed enemies while allowing American children, American poor, and American aged to starve, suffer, and be denied medical treatment. Way to go!!!!!
I took advantage of New Mexico's early voting yesterday. Want to guess which party I supported??
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
Why I Don't Want to Move to Las Cruces
In the previous post, there was some mention of reasons to move, and not move, to Las Cruces. Today would be a perfect example of why one might not move here. It's sunny, about 80 degrees F, no sign of moisture in the area. A cold front will be coming in, lowering those temps to (don't all gasp at once now) the low to mid-60s. Hey, it's March. Gotta expect some of that cold weather to get the flowers ready to bloom in spring, right???
But , back to today......It counts as one of the 350 days of sunshine because it's clear skies, as in not overcast with clouds. But that doesn't mean you can see the sky. Preceding the cold snap is a wind event. Wind speeds should average around 28mph today into this evening. Gusts should tip the old anemometer at around 60mph. That's high gale wind speed.
This is an agricultural area. It's after harvest but not yet time to fully plant the fields. Ground lies somewhat plowed, dry from the lack of rain (this is the desert still)---perfect conditions for dust storms. And that's what we are in the midst of. The sky looks like the sky over a Los Angeles freeway in the middle of the evening rush hour----a sickening shade of brown. None of the mountains are visible, all obscured by blowing dirt. Air quality is rated "Extreme Unhealthy." As we drove to our lecture series this morning we saw people "walking" their dogs---as in, the humans walked with the chihuahua in their arms so the little beast wouldn't blow away...........
So repeat again, "I'm NOT moving to Las Cruces....[repeat 3X or until it sinks in]" and enjoy your winter weather, even though most areas haven't had that season yet. We'll think of you next time we watch the Weather Channel and you are getting hammered while we are in shirtsleeves and in the middle of a cold snap at 60 degrees............
But , back to today......It counts as one of the 350 days of sunshine because it's clear skies, as in not overcast with clouds. But that doesn't mean you can see the sky. Preceding the cold snap is a wind event. Wind speeds should average around 28mph today into this evening. Gusts should tip the old anemometer at around 60mph. That's high gale wind speed.
This is an agricultural area. It's after harvest but not yet time to fully plant the fields. Ground lies somewhat plowed, dry from the lack of rain (this is the desert still)---perfect conditions for dust storms. And that's what we are in the midst of. The sky looks like the sky over a Los Angeles freeway in the middle of the evening rush hour----a sickening shade of brown. None of the mountains are visible, all obscured by blowing dirt. Air quality is rated "Extreme Unhealthy." As we drove to our lecture series this morning we saw people "walking" their dogs---as in, the humans walked with the chihuahua in their arms so the little beast wouldn't blow away...........
So repeat again, "I'm NOT moving to Las Cruces....[repeat 3X or until it sinks in]" and enjoy your winter weather, even though most areas haven't had that season yet. We'll think of you next time we watch the Weather Channel and you are getting hammered while we are in shirtsleeves and in the middle of a cold snap at 60 degrees............
Saturday, March 3, 2012
Lessons of Retirement
So it's been about a year and a half since I pulled the plug, or should that be cut the umbilical cord, with participating as a productive member of society to bask in the glow of retirement. So.......
I imagine there are some lessons I've gleaned from my past 18 months.
The primary emotion I experience is joy coupled with amusement. Every time I read on Facebook about my daughter catching a train or plane at around 5:00AM, great peals of laughter resound about my study. Sorry, but that emotion pretty much extends to my attitude aboout all the worker bees.
It's well worth the extra dollars for a Sam's Club Advantage Plus membership just to be able to go there before the general public. The lines are shorter and the atmosphere is generally less hectic.
Tasks that are required don't need to be performed immediately. Manana doesn't mean "tomorrow"; it means "not today." And any chore or choice of activity can expand to take up more time. When time is no longer wasted being "productive", the choices we make in spending time become more deliberate and fulfilling.
Common wisdom suggests that as one ages it is necessary to continue to challenge one's mental faculties in order to avoid mental deterioration and its accompanying dementia. For some people, this means becoming Sudoku or cryptogram addicts. My choice is re-learning the electric bass and guitar played during my frivolous wasted youth.
And, believe it or not, attending lectures. A major perk to living in Las Cruces is New Mexico State University and its Dona Ana Community College. The DACC operates the Academy for Learning in Retirement which offers lectures in the auditorium of an assisted living community in the city. Normally the lectures are an hour and a half each and run in a series of four lectures on a topic. Past lectures have included mathematics, history of New Mexico, and the recently concluded series on jazz music. Upcoming series titles are "Economic Policies and a Tour of the Heavens," "Narco Violence in Mexico," and "Torture and Intelligence in the US War on Terrorism." These lectures are usually presented by professors expert in the field. For example, the jazz series lectures were given by a performing musician who is well reviewed. Check out the ALR website for more information.
But whatever you do, don't retire to Las Cruces. Too much traffic, too windy, dust storms block views of the mountains, the students jam up all the clubs and restaurants by the university; you do not want to be here. Keep repeating that to yourself..........while those of us already here continue to enjoy the 350+ sunny days and the spectacular Organ Mountains.
I imagine there are some lessons I've gleaned from my past 18 months.
The primary emotion I experience is joy coupled with amusement. Every time I read on Facebook about my daughter catching a train or plane at around 5:00AM, great peals of laughter resound about my study. Sorry, but that emotion pretty much extends to my attitude aboout all the worker bees.
It's well worth the extra dollars for a Sam's Club Advantage Plus membership just to be able to go there before the general public. The lines are shorter and the atmosphere is generally less hectic.
Tasks that are required don't need to be performed immediately. Manana doesn't mean "tomorrow"; it means "not today." And any chore or choice of activity can expand to take up more time. When time is no longer wasted being "productive", the choices we make in spending time become more deliberate and fulfilling.
Common wisdom suggests that as one ages it is necessary to continue to challenge one's mental faculties in order to avoid mental deterioration and its accompanying dementia. For some people, this means becoming Sudoku or cryptogram addicts. My choice is re-learning the electric bass and guitar played during my frivolous wasted youth.
And, believe it or not, attending lectures. A major perk to living in Las Cruces is New Mexico State University and its Dona Ana Community College. The DACC operates the Academy for Learning in Retirement which offers lectures in the auditorium of an assisted living community in the city. Normally the lectures are an hour and a half each and run in a series of four lectures on a topic. Past lectures have included mathematics, history of New Mexico, and the recently concluded series on jazz music. Upcoming series titles are "Economic Policies and a Tour of the Heavens," "Narco Violence in Mexico," and "Torture and Intelligence in the US War on Terrorism." These lectures are usually presented by professors expert in the field. For example, the jazz series lectures were given by a performing musician who is well reviewed. Check out the ALR website for more information.
But whatever you do, don't retire to Las Cruces. Too much traffic, too windy, dust storms block views of the mountains, the students jam up all the clubs and restaurants by the university; you do not want to be here. Keep repeating that to yourself..........while those of us already here continue to enjoy the 350+ sunny days and the spectacular Organ Mountains.
Monday, February 6, 2012
10 Reasons Not to Move to Las Cruces
Las Cruces is a growing city and usually well rated in various rankings of retirement communities. But there are severe drawbacks to living here.
1. Cucarachas in your crocs.
2. The extra expense of sunscreen with 350 days of sun per year.
3. 50 degrees F feels cold in February.
4. There's only TWO seasons: Summer and NOT-Summer
5. The mountains east of the city prevent you from viewing the missile tests.
6. The lack of humidity means the temp you see is the temp you get.
7. Coyotes may eat your chihuahua.
8. "Manana" does not necessarily mean "tomorrow", just "not today."
9. Centipedes might crawl over your toes.
10. Golf can be played year-around.
11. Traffic jams usually consist of 5 cars or less.
I'm sure there are many more reasons not to move here. Please add them as comments as they occur to you. And please don't move here-----we love Las Cruces just the size it is............
1. Cucarachas in your crocs.
2. The extra expense of sunscreen with 350 days of sun per year.
3. 50 degrees F feels cold in February.
4. There's only TWO seasons: Summer and NOT-Summer
5. The mountains east of the city prevent you from viewing the missile tests.
6. The lack of humidity means the temp you see is the temp you get.
7. Coyotes may eat your chihuahua.
8. "Manana" does not necessarily mean "tomorrow", just "not today."
9. Centipedes might crawl over your toes.
10. Golf can be played year-around.
11. Traffic jams usually consist of 5 cars or less.
I'm sure there are many more reasons not to move here. Please add them as comments as they occur to you. And please don't move here-----we love Las Cruces just the size it is............
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Picnic
It was sunny and warm at the Mud Shack. Temperature around 60. A rare rain shower had passed through. A peaceful afternoon. Working on editing some video for future posts.
Then the phone rang..................
TfabP and MrsfabP, friends newly emigrated from Massachusetts, called to remark on the beauty of the weather and suggest a picnic. We were game for that. They rejected the suggestion of going to La Llorona Park since we had been there a couple of times recently. So we decided to go to Dripping Springs which is a Bureau of Land Management public access area. There are numerous covered shelters in the picnic area and wonderful views of both the Mesilla Valley and the Organ Mountains.
Now an understanding of the geography and elevations in the Las Cruces area are necessary to appreciate this tale, so please excuse this digression. Many people embrace the opinion that New Mexico, consisting mostly of desert, is warm year around. This is most definitely not the case. The lowest elevations in the state are well over 2000 ft above sea level. The Mud Shack is located in what is called the "North Valley" and our elevation is 3900 ft. The main residential growth area east of the city proper is known as the "East Mesa", rising about 4500 ft above sea level. The highest peaks of the Organ Mountains, also east of the city, are 9000 ft high. Dripping Springs, nestled in the foothills of the Organ Mountains and about a 20 minute drive from the Mud Shack, spans an elevation range of 5600 to 6200 ft above sea level. Any hiker or person with knowledge of the outdoors is aware that with these sharp distinctions in altitude at relatively compact distances, weather conditions can be extremely changeable........
As we approached Dripping Springs, clouds were racing up to the peaks of the mountains. One minute there were beautiful views enhanced by the changes of light.
The next the highest peaks were obscured by the clouds.
The wind had picked up a bit and there were a few scattered raindrops at the picnic site we had chosen directly across from the trail head. TfabP and my wife stayed in the shelter. He had set up his camera on a tripod to attempt to capture the changing lights and scenes in the mountains. My wife stayed with him, discussing photography and the geology of the region, while MrsfabP and I hiked up the trail to La Cueva.
Then the phone rang..................
TfabP and MrsfabP, friends newly emigrated from Massachusetts, called to remark on the beauty of the weather and suggest a picnic. We were game for that. They rejected the suggestion of going to La Llorona Park since we had been there a couple of times recently. So we decided to go to Dripping Springs which is a Bureau of Land Management public access area. There are numerous covered shelters in the picnic area and wonderful views of both the Mesilla Valley and the Organ Mountains.
| The Dona Ana Mountains seen from Dripping Springs |
Now an understanding of the geography and elevations in the Las Cruces area are necessary to appreciate this tale, so please excuse this digression. Many people embrace the opinion that New Mexico, consisting mostly of desert, is warm year around. This is most definitely not the case. The lowest elevations in the state are well over 2000 ft above sea level. The Mud Shack is located in what is called the "North Valley" and our elevation is 3900 ft. The main residential growth area east of the city proper is known as the "East Mesa", rising about 4500 ft above sea level. The highest peaks of the Organ Mountains, also east of the city, are 9000 ft high. Dripping Springs, nestled in the foothills of the Organ Mountains and about a 20 minute drive from the Mud Shack, spans an elevation range of 5600 to 6200 ft above sea level. Any hiker or person with knowledge of the outdoors is aware that with these sharp distinctions in altitude at relatively compact distances, weather conditions can be extremely changeable........
As we approached Dripping Springs, clouds were racing up to the peaks of the mountains. One minute there were beautiful views enhanced by the changes of light.
| The peaks of the Organs |
The next the highest peaks were obscured by the clouds.
| The clouds roll in |
Off in the distance we could see the remains of the last snowfall, about a week ago:
![]() |
| Snow in the Organs |
The trail rises through sandstone foothills to a large cave, the site of an unsolved murder of a hermit in 1869.
| Along the trail |
| Our destination |
| Entrance to La Cueva |
| Inside La Cueva |
Since we had been briskly walking, we did not feel the temperature falling until we returned to the picnic area and saw TfabP and my wife with shawls and towels bundled about their shoulders against the chilly winds and dropping temps. We decided to decamp to the Visitor Center about 3/4 of a mile up the road. MrsfabP and my wife decided to walk, the showers appearing to have abated. We two men drove to the Center's parking lot. As we stood admiring the views of the valley, the precipitation descended more vigorously. The women appeared with hoods or shawls covering their heads. I swore I saw a snowflake drift by.....
We entered the Visitor Center and chatted with the BLM volunteers manning it, all the while keeping a wary eye on the weather. The rain had evolved into freezing rain and snow. Within the twenty minutes or so we had been in the shelter of the Visitor Center the desert landscape outside was acquiring a white sheen.
![]() |
| Snow on a bush |
| Snow begins to cover the desert |
As we left to make our way down to the valley floor, the temperature outside the car was in the low 40s and both the windshield and back windows required the wipers to keep them free of snow. The defrosters were also going full blast. In the space of a couple of hours and the change of a couple thousand feet of elevation, the winter warmth one expects of the desert Southwest had taken on all the trappings of the New England states our hardy band of picnickers had recently escaped from........
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